Soaring almost vertically to nearly 3000m above the Patagonian steppe, the Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) are spectacular granite pillars that dominate the landscape of what may be South America's finest National Park. Before its creation in 1959, the park was part of a large sheep estancia. Part of Unesco's Biosphere Reserve system since 1978, it shelters flocks of ostrich-like rheas (known locally as ñandús), Andean condors, flamingos and many other bird species. Guanacos graze the open steppe where predatory pumas cannot approach undetected. Humans and vehicles don't disturb them.
In 2005 a hiker burned down 10% of the park using a portable stove in windy conditions. In 2011 another fire caused by an illegal camper burned down 16,200 hectares. The weather can be wildly changeable in this 1810-sq-km park. Sudden rainstorms and knock-down gusts are part of the adventure.
We experienced some of the typical weather before we'd even got into the park - 66km/h wind suddenly appeared as if from nowhere and our motor home was getting badly rocked at a viewpoint we stopped at for the night about 10km before the park entrance. Kirsten braved the wind to go out and take some sunrise photos. We paid 18,000 Ch. Pesos each (approx $28 US) for the entrance into the park and drove 22km along a really bad gravel road to Lago Grey.
We attempted a short 2.5km loop walk for views of Grey glacier but the wind gusts were so strong as we tried to walk along a gravel peninsular that we got blasted by the grit. We nearly got blown off our feet and into the water and the gravel stung any exposed skin! Yikes! After battling through for 20 minutes we gave up and turned around!
We attempted a second walk to a viewpoint with a 700m ascent but after 1.5 hours and only 260m of ascent, we decided the wind was too strong and it was just too dangerous to continue on the the very steep and narrow path. Not a good start!
The next day it rained for most of the day. The weather forecast from two days ago showed good weather all week. They got it wrong! After using slow internet at Lago Grey Hotel we drove east through the park along the gravel roads that are very slow going - 15 km/h (10 mph.) We managed to do a short 30 minute board walk to see Salto Chico, which are rapids and not a waterfall as the name Salto suggests, despite the wind which had not yet died down.
Rio Paine and Salto Chico - 360° Panorama
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Continuing along the road we stopped at a viewpoint and then went to Zona Pudeto and had to cut another walk short because we were getting blown off our feet again. We were getting hit with 100 km/h (60mph) gusts and the motor home was getting rocked badly. So we decided to move back down to the harbour area and parked up there for the night.
But the wind never died down. We didn't get much sleep but it was too dangerous to drive anywhere else so we had to stay put. Winnietwo is normally quite quiet inside but the wind was very strong and extremely loud. We would hear an eerie rustling and howling sound and then Whoosh!! The wind slammed into us with unbelievable force. Kirsten was even holding onto our back doors because she thought they were going to get ripped off! It sounded like Mother Nature was incredibly pissed off!!
We've never experienced anything like it and we certainly do not want any repeats! After a sleepless night, fearing that we would get hit by loose and deadly debris with each gust and worrying that our spare tyre on the back doors would get blown off, it was not surprising that we were both awake at 7-45am when Kirsten peaked out behind the curtain and shouted "Super sunrise!"
There was a mad dash to pack up followed by a 7km drive in the half light to a viewpoint for sunrise photos. We only just made it! It was still very windy and Kirsten could hardly hold her camera for the photos. We had breakfast and it was only when we drove further east that the wind died down. Actually, I think it was just because we'd moved out of the wind zone!
There was blue sky and sun so when we got to Hotel Torres we decided to take advantage of the beautiful day and do the strenuous walk up to Torres lookout. By the time we'd driven there and made drinks and food for our backpack, it was 11-30am when we set off.
The trail is 9km with 886m of ascent but you need to add an extra 200m to that because the trail descends down to the river and then back up the other side. It took us 7 hours and 10 minutes return and the ascent took us 3 hours 40 minutes.
We have done this walk before in 2002 but the trail has been changed. 14 years ago it was raining and the trail was very wet, going over swampy areas and walking over tree roots in the water. The final part of the climb up to the lookout was a boulder scramble. There was no path and you just had to pick your way through. Some of the steps up and over the boulders were so high that people with little legs (like me!) used up a huge amount of energy getting up there. At least there weren't many people - there was basically just our group but then we picked a bad weather day to do it!
This time around we had beautiful weather and the trail is more developed with a new route to the lookout on a serpentine path instead of through the moraine boulders. It was a lot better but Torres del Paine's 2800m granite peaks inspire a mass pilgrimage of hikers from around the world, so there were a huge number of people on the path. Unfortunately it meant there were bottle necks and Kirsten was getting a bit impatient at having to wait all the time. She should have right of way!
Our effort was rewarded with a superb view of the Torres with a blue sky as background. It was also bitterly cold and we regretted not bringing our gloves - we'd never even thought about bringing them! We thoroughly enjoyed it despite picking one of the toughest to do after a long break from trekking.
The way back down was hard on the knees but we even saw a fox on the way. We planned to get up at 4am the next morning and hike back up for sunrise photos but that went out of the window when we had a visit from Astrid and her friend Moritz who we'd last met just over two weeks ago and who are cycling around South America. They are currently hiking the Torres circuit in 9 days and we chatted for so long that it was well after 11pm by the time we got to bed. There was no way we were going to get up before 4am!
We still dragged ourselves out of bed to drive out for sunrise photos the next morning even though it was bitterly cold and we froze our butts off. We returned to the hotel car park and after breakfast Kirsten went to sleep.
The next day we went for a 21km walk to Los Cuernos refugio and back. The walk is part of the W and circuit route. The Paine Circuit (the 'W' plus the backside of the peaks) requires seven to nine days, while the 'W' (named for the rough approximation to the letter that it traces out on the map) takes four to five. Days ago I'd looked at these two major hiking routes in the park but we'd need camping gear to do them. I looked into a shorter version for 4 nights stopping at the refugios en route but it would cost almost $1,000 US per person and it wasn't worth paying out so much for hiking.
So we just did part of the route. We'd already been up to the lookout and now we were heading west from Hotel Torres for views over Lago Nordenskjöld and a partial view of the Frances glacier. It was a really nice walk over a suspension bridge and with various river crossings and although it was cloudy, it was quite warm - perfect weather.
Lago Nordenskjöld - 360° Panorama
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Kirsten did her usual trick and split her trousers when she bent down to take one of hundreds of photos! They were too badly ripped to mend and she now only has one pair left! There were quite a few hikers on the trail, most of them carrying way too much. One guy was bending over being sick! We made sure he had enough drinking water but there wasn't much we could do about his huge backpack with all his camping gear in it.
View of the Cuernos - 360° Panorama
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The walk took us almost 7 hours and it started raining an hour after we got back so we had good timing. The next day we drove to a ranger station to get an extension for our park permit - you are only allowed to drive out and return within the first three days, but we got an extension so we can go out to Laguna Azul, (which means going out of the park boundary and back in) and then re-enter the park to get to Hotel Torres.
We were going to walk another part of the circuit route but the ranger suggested a walk to Lago Sarmiento instead. It was a 6.5km, 2 hour trek one way. The path went steeply uphill at first and past numerous guanacos who are very graceful when they jump over high fences. We also climbed steeply uphill to see some caves with small paintings in them.
When we got back to Winnietwo we smelled diesel - we have a leak! It looks like it might be a valve and at least it's not too bad at the moment but we can't get it fixed here. The nearest place for us would be El Calafate in Argentina which is over 300km away. We'll just have to hope we don't lose too much before then.
We drove out to Laguna Azul the following day and stayed for two nights. We stopped at Cascada Paine en route and then asked at a ranger station. Normally campers are only allowed to stay one night but he told us that if it's not too busy we might be allowed to stay for two nights.
The next morning it was raining and Kirsten was crying over her book - she was literally sitting on the toilet and sobbing!! Of course she had to finish it despite the sobs. At least the rain stopped so we set off towards the ranger station to get a weather report and see if we can stay another night. We met him along the way and he said we could stay another night.
So we dashed back, packed a rucksack and set off to walk along Laguna Azul and then over various hills heading towards another laguna. Moles had been very busy digging up the path and we had had to skirt around all the mud heaps and mole hills. We could even hear them nearby making a very odd guttural sound.
We walked about 14km in total and had free hot showers at the campground when we returned. We gave them a tip to cover the cost of the hot water so that the free showers continue for others. We drove back to Hotel Torres and spent another two nights there.
We were waiting for better weather and used the time to write our website but we blew a fuse in the 12v plugs that we use for the computer. It took us a while to work out that it was the fuse and search for another. Of course we have lots of fuses but not that particular type! So I went off to the hotel and various other places to see if I could find one. It took me almost an hour but I finally found a workshop that actually had one. They were very kind to search through all their supplies and gave me one for free!
We managed to get a lot of work done on the computer, did a short walk in the area, took more sunset photos and then it was time to leave the park and head back into Argentina.
Sunset - 360° Panorama
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